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View Full Version : *HOW TO* Remove engines from frames


MishMash
05-28-2008, 09:43 AM
This is not as daunting as it may seem. Before you shell out $500+ bills to have a shop do it for you, let me coach you a little bit into seeing how easy it can be. :naughty2

If your of average capability, what makes you above average is just being prepared and having the right tools. Thats it.



What you normally need without fail:
Service Manual. No, not the owners manual. Service Manual. Most manuals, including Honda manuals, will give you actual break-down procedures and in which order to remove things....in addition to the all-important torque specs.
Torque Wrench - Someone you know, whether its apparent or not, has a torque wrench. Put the word out that you need one.
Metric sockets - A good socket set will go up to 19mm normally. Make sure you have one
Metric Allen Keys (Wrenches) - These Hex wrenches are invaluable. Make sure you get keys that actually have some length to them for leverage
Breaker Bar. A breaker bar can be one of two things - If you have a sturdy well-built rachet, a breaker can be a hollow steel tube that slides over the shank to give added length, therefore added leverage. It can also be a purpose built tool made to accept sockets.
Small steel tube - you slide this over your allen keys for added leverage and less bloody knuckles
Duct Tape - I use duct tape to label everything I disconnect for easy re-connect
Ziploc baggies - For bolts n' such. Be such to label every bag. Take the time to do it right and it will save you a major headache.
Normal tools like pliers (Needlenose works best), screwdrivers and a softhead mallet.
Special tools - Per the Service Manual, there are normally special tools that are required (Like Thrust Sockets, Castlenut Sockets, etc). I would highly recommend using the appropriate recommended special tool where required. A Hammer and flathead screwdriver are common, but not appropriate.
The final key part is to built an engine dolly. I constructed one out of 2x4 pieces, and it rolls on casters. I measured the distance to the motor with the bike off the ground, and built up a dolly around it. I would then wedge 2x4s and nail in place as needed to stabilize motor. I finally screwed in Eye-bolts at the corners of the dolly to strap the motor down.

Here is an example (V-Twin Block):


http://www.turn2sportbikes.com/060103_HanshawProject_Picture18.jpg (http://www.turn2sportbikes.com/060103_HanshawProject_Picture18.jpg)

Another Example (Inline 4 Block):

http://www.turn2sportbikes.com/StreetfighterGSXR_Picture37.jpg

If you have any doubts or questions, msg me before starting your project. Don't let it scare you....its how you learn. If you going to spend any money, I would rather be in errant replacement parts that I actually damaged in trying to do it myself the first time, rather than the labor of someone else. The cost of knowledge is invaluable.

Chas4RR
05-28-2008, 09:53 AM
How do you support the bike while removing an engine? I've heard that some people hang it from the garage rafters with ratchet straps.

MishMash
05-28-2008, 10:30 AM
How do you support the bike while removing an engine? I've heard that some people hang it from the garage rafters with ratchet straps.

Well that depends - If your doing the job yourself and your solely removing the engine, meaning the rest of the bike is still assembled, what I do is

Make sure the bike is on a front and rearstand.
Remove headers for sure
Cradle motor as described above
Secure the swingarm to the rearstand with a strap or bungee
Rig two pulley wheels of handlebar distance apart in the garage rafters or ceiling. Make sure these are well-anchored into the garage truss studs.
Secure rope to the handlebars, clip-ons or forward portion of the frame...wherever it is out of the way when hoisting. Make sure to use enough rope and have a tie-off point out of harms way.
Unbolt motor and hoist bike up. Chances are all the fairings and gas tank are off. I'd take the front wheel off for clearance too.
Now that your frame is lightened up in the front (No wheel, or motor, or gas tank, etc) you'd be amazed how easy it is to hoist up with minimal strength. tie it off and use strap to secure it for its permanent stance while you work on the motor.
This is all if your doing it yourself. You can avoid the elaborate hoist mechanism if you have two friends. Two friends replaces the hoisting. Do everything above, but when it comes time to hoist, two people (one on each bar) lifts the bike in the front. It will naturally pivot on the rearstand. 3rd guy moves front stand, disloges motor and wheels it out of the way on cradle....then puts front stand back for you and friend to set bike back down on.

Cake! :owneddance

Vtec44
05-28-2008, 11:15 AM
Awesome freaking post! I've always wondered about this since I may purchase a newer frame for my race bike.